I hit the road and started driving
west. I wasn't anxious to be driving for hours on end but I can't
imagine who would be. Before long measurements of time go by gas
station stops rather than hours. After 3 gas stations I found myself
getting tired, 2nd degree tired. 2nd degree
tired is after you've already stopped for coffee. 3rd
degree flirts with haggard, only go there out of necessity. The rest
of my foreseeable existence was going to be surviving on meager means
so paying for any kind of lodging was out of the question. Cue
Wal-Mart. After working there for two years back in high school I
swore them off for years. I've since warmed up to them again partly
out of necessity, but mostly out of convenience. I don't know the
exact story why but anybody can park their vehicle off to the side in
a Wal-Mart lot and sleep. No hassles and no charge. Next time you are
at a store after dark pay attention to the perimeter of the lot and
you will inevitably notice several vehicles. You'll see truckers, RVs
, and even seedy busted ass vans that look like they should have a
"Free Candy" sign taped to the side. There are still
regular enough looking vehicles to represent average Joes like me.
It's not glamorous but there is running water and most anything to
buy right at your disposal. It smacks of dirt bag at first but that
quickly subsides after you realize all the good stories that you are
making. My first lot stop was in Russellville, Arkansas. It was a
good intro to Wal-Mart camping with no odd characters lurking about.
I must have been that character.
Daylight came round again and with it
me in the driver seat facing west. Oklahoma greeted me with rolling
hills and lush trees. I let this countryside slip past though, the
desert was beckoning me from hundreds of miles away. I had never been
to Texas and had no expectations as I crossed the state line. I
immediately found myself confronted by the most memorable stereotype
of all. Everything in Texas is bigger.
As I got a
little farther past the state line I was intrigued with how the the
land was taking shape. Scruffy brush peppered the ground everywhere
and rains had created gulleys and washouts over time. With nothing
but the brush and grass to hold the soil together the gulleys would
grow and deepen giving rise to small mesas. This didn't last for long
though and I found myself surrounded by an area that bore a striking
resemblance to Kansas. I guess it was foolish to think that I would
be able to cross the Midwest unscathed. I have to admit that I
possess a strong topographic bias towards mountains and feel uneasy
in an area that is so flat and wide open. The rest of the Texas
panhandle was like this and after Amarillo the monotony was only
broken by the occasional cattle ranch or small town. As I approached
the New Mexico state line the landscape changed abruptly. The powers
that be certainly drew the state line appropriately. Suddenly there
were mesas off in the distance with buttes mingled in intermittently.
I was relieved to have something new to look at. Old abandoned
windmills stood idly spinning in the wind. With no other structures
in sight I wondered if they were possessed any purpose other than
serving as reminders of yesteryear. I wasn't too many miles into the
state when I started seeing numerous signs for Cline's Corner. With
all the hooplah I decided it would be worth it to check it out. It
was conveniently located right off the interstate where I was exiting
so it worked out.
I couldn't help but wonder if it was the New Mexico equivalent of
Pedro's South of the Border. After arriving I realized
that Pedro's still reigns supreme as the all time tourist trap but
Cline's did have a nice back parking lot where I was able to watch my
first sunset in the state. Once the sun was all but gone I hit the
road again and started heading north on 285 to Santa Fe. Light was
fading fast but I was still able to make out the mountain ranges
looming in the distance on the horizon. I was a little disappointed
to not be able to see them in detail but that sunset was absolutely
worth it.
It was dark as I finally wheeled into
Santa Fe. Once I located the Wal-Mart there I went about trying to
find the way in and found myself having a bit of a time. It was dark,
unfamiliar, and convoluted – the perfect navigational trifecta for
conjuring creative cuss words. Once there I was immediately surprised
by how many RVs and other vehicles were littered around the
perimeter. Some were passing through while others seemed to be
regulars. I couldn't fault anybody, this was a five star location for
lot surfers. After taking care of Nualla and exploring a bit I
settled in for the night.
I was at a loss as to what to do around
Santa Fe. Road trips are better left unplanned and it's more
interesting to simply let the journey unfold before you. With this in
mind I began asking around about cool things to check out in the
area. I had to be particular though because of the heat and having a
dog. There was no way she could hang out in the car for any length of
time. I decided on going to an REI store as surely there would be
somebody there in the know. After some conversation and map
scrutinizing I was headed up the mountain to the Santa Fe Basin.
Located here is the winter resort Ski Santa Fe but the area has
plenty to offer for the warm months as well. I had been told to check
out the Winsor trail and it ended up being exactly what I was looking
for. Compared to Santa Fe's elevation of 6800, the parking area at
the trail head was just over 10,000 feet. With the change in elevation
came a very pleasant decrease in temperature. This trail was the
perfect warm up for the climbs ahead of me. The whole area had a very
similar feel to Summit County and the hiking I am most used to in
Colorado. I climbed as high as my water supply and the thin air would
allow. I was greeted with a terrific view of the back side of the
basin and decided this was a good place to turn back.
After running
around in the woods I made my way back down the mountain to Santa Fe.
I didn't like 20 more degrees stacked on the thermometer but I did
enjoy the area. I was really impressed with the overall feel of the
town and how unique its layout and architecture was.
The sun was relentless and I wouldn't
have been sad if a cloud happened to obscure it for a minute or two.
No such luck in the desert though. I had spent my day in Santa Fe and
now wanted to see what Taos had to offer. I decided on taking the
scenic high road to Taos so I would get a better glimpse into what
New Mexico was about. On my way out of Santa Fe I ended up driving
past a roadside attraction called Camel Rock. Based on the typical
angle of pictures taken I was never able to tell how it got its name.
Not to be outdone I managed to take a particularly well timed photo
out of 3 or so as I cruised by on the highway. The rock appears to be
a camel laying down while looking completely perpendicular to it.
Once on the road to Taos I was amazed
at the differences in the countryside and how quickly it could
change. I would be in the arid and scruffy desert one minute and the
next be surrounded by a forest of pine trees. The landscapes would
fluctuate back and forth through the winding roads as I neared my
destination and kept the ride anything but mundane.
The sun was
setting as I cruised into town and I tried checking my phone for
directions. I didn't realize it until the next day but a fiber optic
cable had been cut and the entire area was without internet or cell
service. I was able to check out the town pretty well as I cruised
back and forth looking for the Wal-Mart. In my wanderings around town
I remember seeing a character walking on the roadside with his dog.
After making a pass or two through town I found my way to the store.
I parked in the etcetera side of the lot where I shared space with a
"free candy" looking van as well as a brightly colored,
custom painted van. While settling in for the night I saw the
character from earlier approaching with his dog. He had long blonde
dreadlocks and a left eye that would wander around.
His dog seemed to carry itself very deliberately while still being
friendly and approachable. Come to find out, Rick and Socks were
their names. After talking with Rick for a bit he spoke of his blind
eye, his run ins with authority figures overstepping their
boundaries, living out in the desert part time, and making yurt tents
amongst other things. He was nice and shared with me the directions
to a hot springs way off the beaten path right on the side of the Rio
Grande river. Between that and checking out the Rio Grande Gorge
Bridge I knew what I would be doing the next day.
While going in to the bathroom the next
morning I saw Socks laying down inside a shopping cart waiting for
Rick outside of the bathrooms. I didn't even notice him at first
because he was so still. It was odd too how people disregarded the
dog as if it were either commonplace or they didn't want to initiate
a conversation with Rick. That sticks out in my memory because Socks
was so well behaved and seemed to enjoy being pushed around in a cart
like a child. I wished him a good journey and set out for the hot
springs.
I saw the road to turn on right as I
drove past it so I was already off to a good start. Anything beats
making several passes back and forth looking for something. I was
pretty skeptical from Rick's meandering directions but was pleasantly
surprised as I noticed every landmark he mentioned. 20 minutes of
driving saw me at the trail head for Manby Hot Springs. I was taken
aback at the beauty of the river and how it had slowly made its mark.
Over time it had eroded away hundreds of feet of dirt and rock into
the canyon walls that are present today. Its impressiveness didn't
fade as I neared the bottom of the canyon on the hiking trail. I had
also heard that the hot springs were clothing optional and truth be
told I was greeted with a pale white butt when I showed up. Figures,
let your freak flag fly! There were two different people hanging out
when I showed up but they drifted off towards the top of the canyon.
I enjoyed the solitude of my surroundings until a whole family,
complete with grandparents, showed up. They were a bit loud and I
felt it was their turn so I began to get my things together. I made
it a point to jump in the river before leaving though. It was nice
and cold and helped the hike back up from being too hot.
Once back on the highway and off of the washer board gravel road I made good time to the Rio Grande Gorge
Bridge. Hiking down the canyon to the river is one thing but to be
directly over it looking down is entirely different. It was quite a
drop down from the bridge and I imagine that anybody who isn't fond
of heights would never set foot on it.
Further yet up the road is a famous
earthship community out in the middle of the desert. Earthships have
always held my interest as I have studied them in the past. They are
designed to be completely self sustaining houses independent of the
grid. Fortunately they had several structures for visitors to look
at, including one that was under construction.
As I continued north towards Colorado
there were scores of dirt devils popping up all around. I could see
the odd one or two off in the distance at the end of sight as well as
others that were nearer. At one point I took a detour off into the
desert to check it out. Suddenly, one manifested out of a dry creek bed near my car. I fumbled around with my camera but
unfortunately couldn't get a decent picture. It didn't last long
before it expelled all its energy and disappeared just as quickly.
If the whirlwind were sentient then it seemed like it had gotten shy
in front of a camera. I made my way back to the road after the brief
detour and before long was back in Colorado.
As I got further north I
noticed a huge dark ominous cloud looming out on the horizon. I
followed it to the source and realized that the massive cloud was the
West Fork fire blazing away. It was eerie how it could so strongly
influence light and visibility. I ended up driving right through it
and had to deal with the smoke for an hour and a half. The smoke had
my eyes watering and Nualla sneezing. A normal drive turned into a
surreal experience when I had to think about the number of trees and
property being burned to produce such quantities of smoke. I kept
plugging along and made it through to clear skies. I soon found
myself in familiar territory and it was just a matter of time before
arriving back in Summit County. I am fortunate to know good
people and I was able to stay at a friend's house. (Thanks Lori!) The peak bagging would soon begin.